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Duncan Campbell went through four checkpoints to get there Lucero Palmera loved Braveheart."What a beautiful story," she said after she had stacked her AK-47 neatly in the corner of the office in the main square of San Vicente del Caguan on a humid Colombian morning.

"Eighteen million people live in extreme poverty here and war (via American aid) is not going to solve their problems," says Trinidad, whose name, like all of those of his colleagues, is a nomme de guerre.

While the first three road blocks are manned by young Colombian army soldiers who have learned to wield a rifle before they have needed to wield a razor, the fourth has a markedly different air: the guard checking papers is a young woman with a Che badge in her combat cap and a bangle on her wrist. "There used to be 12 or 13 killings a week here," says Omar Moreno, a teacher having a drink in a bar in the main square where the odd stray goat or horse interrupt the passage of the stream of young people on motorbikes and scooters. Everyone in Colombia would like to live like this." Not quite everyone.

Miguel Angel Serna is the parish priest whose modernist church was built by Italian missionaries in the 50s.

The two major criticisms aimed at Farc are that it recruits children and carries out acts of random violence.

Amnesty International, in its latest report published only last week, suggests that during Farc's control of the zone, it has killed 19 people, six suspected paramilitaries and 13 members of a gnostic sect.

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